Black and White Photography in the Digital Age

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The world is celebrating color in full spectrum, not just in the environment but also in the computer. In the 60's, people are happy to see their photographs in black and white copies and it extended for quite some time until technology can already reproduce and provide people with colored digital photography.

Why still use black and white? If you have watched the controversial movie "Schindler's List" (1993) by Steven Spielberg, it has been presented in the screens in black and white color. Critics were expressing dissatisfaction, and to some degree, one could think it is such a waste denying the audience of more than 1 million colors reduced to nothing but grayscale monochromatic theme.

Nowadays, black and white photography is directly proportional to vanity, because everyone desires colored output. In case of "Schindler's List," it was released on purpose as black and white, to give way to a dramatic impact for the setting of 1945 Nazi occupation. The effect of black and white reel, has added spice to the thematic goal of the director. The essence of using black and white is important for character shots.

The world is ironic and ridiculous at times, but we cannot simply take away black and white especially in the era of digital photography. We know all Graphic Arts editing applications, scanners, digital cameras, and other photography gadgets have grayscale options.

To start with your own black and white digital photography shots, you will not need extra effort and complications other than shooting as is. Take the shot in color then you can switch the setting of the digital image in an editor, using array of choices. If you are using Photoshop or Fireworks, you can change the whole image into black and white by editing "Hue and Saturation" or simply switching it to "grayscale" format.

Old photographs from developed films can be converted into digital images by scanning them. If you want a black and white portrait out of it, set your scanner into grayscale. The result is black and white photo.

Setting your digital camera into "evening shot" mode automatically converts the image as monochromatic. You can remove saturation to convert it to black and white. Digital camera works efficiently with a computer. You can do everything about it in full control---that is if you are adept with the manipulation of the technical side of it. It will be quite expensive but worth the effort.

Technology is getting better and better, if you choose conventional effects, as long as you have the 360-degree options to enhance possibilities, then black and white digital photography is very simple to produce.

Low Jeremy maintains http://digital-photography.articlesforreprint.com This content is provided by Low Jeremy. It may be used only in its entirety with all links included.

Challanges of Low-Light Photography

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Most of us at one point in our photographic history realized that capturing images in dim light, or fair darkness changes an otherwise mundane scene into a much more interesting, and in many cases a surreal scene. While capturing this scene in normal daylight is typically fairly straight forward, working with very low light is quite a bit more difficult. There are many minor issues, and just as many larger issues which make it tricky to capture good photography in dim light. As such, we will discuss the big issues which everyone without a doubt has encountered at some point. Sharpness, and accuracy of exposure is always a concern when the light is low. So, let's dig deeper into these issues, and discuss suggestions to improve your low-light photography.

If you are like most people you shoot your low-light, or night photography on the go. This of course means that unless you are already a pro, and have an assistant who carries your tripod, you have to carry it yourself. In most situations tripods are a great tool, however we may not always have them available to us, and at times traveling with one is not easy. There is nothing out there that will replace a stability of a tripod, however if it were not an option there are other things we could do to compensate for low-light. The most simple way is to increase your camera's sensitivity to light. It may sound weird to amateurs, but a higher speed (higher ISO) film, or a setting on a digital camera makes the instrument more sensitive to light. Basically, the higher the ISO setting on your digital camera (ex. 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, etc.) or the ISO rating on your film, the faster it will respond. There are disadvantages to every advantage, and this is no exception. Higher ISO setting on your digital camera means lower image quality. While the camera does become more sensitive to light, and is able to capture lower amounts of light to "paint" the scene correctly, the high ISO also causes "digital noise"which looks like grains of sand sprinkled over the image. Luckily, technology is getting much better, and there are now digital filters built right into the camera which reduce this noise. Nonetheless, there is some loss of quality. In fact, with most Point-and-Shoot digital cameras the effect is greater than on digital SLRs (Single Lens Reflex cameras), because the image sensor, which actually captures the image through the lens, is very small, in many cases the size of your thumb nail. If you are planning to shoot a lot of low-light photography, consider upgrading to a digital SLR, if you are using a Point-and-Shoot, and are familiar with effects of digital noise. If you are still shooting film, the same problem exists, and higher ISO films are often much more "grainy"than a photograph captured with a digital camera. Some photographers introduce higher ISO films on purpose, because grain is at times considered an artistic effect, however, it has to be used wisely. If you invested in a film or a digital SLR, your options are more open. If you have a reasonable budget, consider getting a fast lens, which will allow more light in and require less sacrificing on the side of quality. Many new digital cameras come with an "Image Stabilization"which allows for sharper images captured at lower ISO settings without a tripod, or another stabilizing device.

Just when you thought getting around without a tripod was difficult enough, I throw another curve ball at you. Overexposed Highlights - are common in photography captured in low light. It is a fine balance, and you never win. You either overexpose the bright light, or underexpose the dim areas of the scene. There is not one solution to this. Try to keep your exposures short, whether you use a fast lens on your SLR, or a higher ISO setting on your Point-and-Shoot, as this will reduce the overexposed lights. If your camera allows for exposure bracketing, use it, and it will help you get the right balance of light and darkness in the scene. Stay away from using any sort of flash, unless you are photographing people, and not a dimly lit scene. If you are shooting people in a club, a pub, or any other dimly lit place, use your flash, and try to be fairly close to your subject(s), because flash drops off very quickly. If you are shooting a street scene, a night landscape, a harbor, or any similar scene, the mood of the scene will be destroyed if any flash is used. The resulting image will be underexposed, and only very near objects will be captured. Obtaining focus may be difficult at times, when the light really drops off. This is when a manual focus comes in handy. It is unfortunate that most Point-and-Shoot cameras do not have a manual focus option. However, many new cameras have pre-focus lights built into them. If you have this option, make sure it is enabled. The camera sends very quick bursts of light to light the scene, and allow it to obtain focus. In extreme situations a flash light may help too. Simply shine it in the direction of the lens, and let your camera focus. Needless to say, when it is so dark, you MUST have a tripod.

While you will certainly encounter other problems shooting in dim light, the topics covered will no doubt ease your photographic efforts. Ultimately, most of your success will come from practice, and experience.

Written by Professional Photographer, and an owner of a Photography Selling Service. To learn more about this, and many other general, as well as more specific photography related subjects, or to explore a Fine Art Photography gallery, please consider visiting WorldonPaper.com Contemporary Fine Art Gallery

Night Photography: Low Light Tips and Techniques

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Photography at night can be used to create mysterious and amazing photos. When I say photography at night I mean the hours from around sunset until when the stars are clearly visible. The long exposures associated with low light can create unique effects and unusually sharp photos. And when I say long exposures I mean exposures lasting from half a second up to even 30 seconds. An exposure that long would seem impossible to prevent shaking, so my technique that I use very often is to compose the photo like I would normally and then to set the self-timer so the camera takes the picture on its own and I don't even have to touch it.

-Equipment Options

For low light photos, a tripod (or some kind of substitute) is very necessary. I almost always keep a tripod in the trunk of my car or carry a miniature tripod around on trips. A miniature tripod can be very handy because it is typically small enough to fit in a pants pocket so it can be taken anywhere. Some photographers carry around a bean bag or something like it so that can set their camera down and tilt it in any way they like. Some of my best pictures I have taken simply by setting my camera down on a newspaper stand and setting the self-timer.

Many photographers are convinced that they need a cable release to take long exposures but the self-timer release option on just about all cameras works just as well. All you have to do is set the camera up, configure the self-timer, press the shutter button, and wait the specified amount of time (usually 10 seconds) and the camera will take the photo automatically. And you don't have to touch the camera so the photo won't be blurred from hand shaking.

-Night Photo Opportunities

Landscape Photos - My favorite kind of night photo usually includes a landscape with some kind of foreground element, some sort of framing element, and lots of lights throughout the scene. Adding some kind of foreground item to the frame helps to create a greater depth of field, this technique works for any kind of photo but I have found that it makes night landscape photos much better. Another tip you should keep in mind is that the main subject of a night photo should probably be the most well lit. Lots of light is good for a night exposure but there should still be some focus applied to the major objects in a scene.

Capturing Motion - A very popular kind of night photography includes a steady camera with some sort of fast moving object streaming through the frame. When cars are photographed at night with a long shutter speed, the headlights make a bright pathway of light and in most cases the car can't even be seen. Another option would be to set up your camera next to a lighted area with lots of people moving like a night club or an illuminated street. Just about any kind of motion captured with the camera steady produces a very interesting photo.

-Balancing Aperture and Shutter Speed

When taking photos at night you should keep aperture in mind as well as shutter speed. It is without question that you will need a long shutter speed, but the aperture that you choose will provide the depth of field. When I take night photos I usually have a very long shutter speed (5-15 seconds) and a very narrow aperture (high f-stop). This combination creates a huge depth of field and makes everything very crisp and in focus. Of course sometimes you will not desire a great depth of field and in those situations you should widen the aperture (small f-stop).

-Calculating the Exposure

Figuring out what exact shutter speed and aperture you should use can be very challenging in Manual Mode. I would recommend that you just try many different combinations for each scene and eventually you will refine the settings that you prefer. Another technique I use is Bracketing, if you bracket all your photos so the camera takes multiple exposures at different settings, you are more likely to end up with a photo that has a satisfactory brightness.

-Conclusion

There is no exact science to night photography; I hope some of these tips will guide you in the right direction. But the best night photographers are usually the people who experiment a lot when they are taking low light exposures and eventually they figure out the best scenes and best exposure settings to match. Just remember that you need a very long shutter speed setting, and that you need to keep the camera very steady.

Richard Schneider is a digital photography enthusiast and founder of http://www.picturecorrect.com/ which offers tips and news about digital photography, digital camera reviews, and photoshop tutorials. Please also visit http://www.picturecorrect.com/freewallpaper.htm where you can find many examples of the techniques described in this article to use as your desktop wallpaper.

Web Cam Astrophotography

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Web cams have changed amateur astrophotography profoundly. You can now have a CCD for a fraction of the cost. Web cams can take awesome planetary and lunar astrophotos right out of the box. You can use the capture software that comes with the cam for capturing your shots and then use freeware to process the results. Can't get much cheaper than that. Of course for better results it is you should use specialized software, but that is available on the cheap as well.

And if you are a do-it-yourselfer, web cams can also be adapted to take long exposure astrophotos, pretty cool right? Plus there are ready to go, web cam based planetary imagers now available from Celestron, Meade and, Orion. Meade and Orion also have imagers for long exposure, deep-sky imaging. All these include software. They are however more expensive. If you already have a web cam great, you only need some software which can be downloaded for free, and an adaptor to connect the web cam to your telescope. If you don't own one the following cams have proven to be good for astrophotography and good deals can be found on eBay for example.

-ToUcam Pro by Philips PCVC740K or PCVC840K ToUcam PRO II. I have both of these. I am leaving the new one as a dedicated planetary imager and adapting the PCV740K for long exposure astrophotography.

-Vesta pro also by Philips. I haven't personally used this web cam but others have with great success. It can also be adapted for long exposures.

-Quickcam pro by Logitech. I used to have one of these, but I prefer the ToUcam. It does a good job though and can also be modified for long exposures.

-There are other web cams which are good for astrophotography but these three are the only ones I have experience with.

Now for the adaptor to connect the web cam to your telescope. I use a Mogg adaptor, made by, surprise Mr. Steve Mogg. More information and purchasing can be found at: Mogg web cam adaptors For either ToUcam you will want the UWAT-F, for the Vesta Pro the UWAS-F, and for the Quickcam Pro the UWAL-F. He has adaptors for other astrophotography web cams as well.

Next you will need some software to make this all work. Good news it won't cost you a single penny. First you will need some capture software. K3CCDTools version 1 is absolutely free. It works very well to capture astrophotos with web cams. I use version 3 which costs $45.00 because I use some of the other features it offers but you won't need that for basic planetary work (yet). You can download it at: K3CCDTools web cam astrophotography capture software.

To get really nice detail in your shots you will need to combine (stack) multiple images. A really nice piece of software is called RegiStax. It is also freeware. You can download a copy at: RegiStax.

The next article in this series will be on setting up your web cam and software, capturing your first image during daylight, then getting your first astrophoto (the moon).

Carl Gilbertson has been involved in amatuer astronomy for over 30 years and astrophotography for over twenty-five years. Learn more at his site: Web Cam Astrophotography

Photography Job

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How To Overcome A Yeast Infection Using Candida Cookbooks

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One of the best ways a person can combat the effects of Candida is by following a strict Candida diet. Unfortunately with this diet there are a number of foods that you will need to eliminate from your diet. Luckily for you there are plenty of Candida cookbooks now available which can help you to produce great meals despite having to omit many of the ingredients that you would normally include.

To combat the symptoms of candida and regain balance, you need to omit foods which contain yeast, sugar, fungi and generally avoid processed foods. You will also find that you need to omit such foods such as cheese, marmite, vinegar based products, fruit (both fresh and dried) as well as smoked and fermented foods. This is because all of these contain elements, which the Candida bacteria feeds on and which will only help them grow more rapidly in the body.

However, as previously mentioned, there are many cookbooks now available which have been specifically produced for helping a person suffering from Candida. They can provide useful information about what you eat when either going out or planning a meal at home.

Many of the better cookbooks written for candida sufferers contain ingredients that are readily available at your local supermarket, greengrocers or butchers. With many of the ingredients being a combination of meats and vegetables (both of which do not promote candida growth).

As a candida overgrowth can effect the body?s ability to absorb essential nutrients, then it is important that the meals that are eaten are rich in the essential vitamins and minerals and nutritional elements required by the body, so that you do not become malnourished.

In my opinion when looking for a good candida cookbook you should ensure it includes the following:

1. A list of the foods that should be restricted from the diet, including sugar, yeast, diary and fungi based foods

2. A comprehensive list of the foods that are excellent for combating candida, like garlic, onions and fresh vegetables

3. A list of the foods that are nutritionally rich and can be eaten without increasing candida overgrowth.

4. Exciting ways to combine these foods into nutritious and tasty meals that cover snacks, breakfast, lunch, evening meal and supper, as well as cooking for larger groups and children.

5. What to eat when eating out at a restaurant or at a friend?s house.

A cookbook containing the above will help you manage the symptoms of candida and also give suggestions to help alleviate the sugar cravings, drowsiness and ?mind fog? that can sometimes be linked to a candida albincans infection.

If you want to find out more abut how to manage candida naturally and about the candida cookbooks that we recommend, then sign up for our free newsletter below.
Grab your free copy of Jane Symms' brand new Candida & Yeast Infection Newsletter - Discover more aboutcombating canida with diet and candida cookbooks

Art Photography

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What is Macro Photography?

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One of the most satisfying forms of photography, and one of the easiest to master is macro photography.

A practical way for defining macro photography is by the strength of the lens, or how nearby it can focus. For true macro photography, you'll want to have a lens that focuses down to a 1:1 range. For example,for 35mm film,your camera has to have the ability to focus on an area at least as small as 24?36mm ,because this is the size of the image on the film.After having the film developed,the picture of the subject on the negative or slide will be exactly the same size as the subject photographed.

What makes macro photography seductive is the level of detail that you see, sometimes for the first time - familiar objects become unusual and abstract and unusual objects become even more interesting.

There are many applications for macro photography: flowers,plants,butterflies, minerals,snowflakes... Your own backyard, a local garden,beach or forest can provide you with hours of fun with macro photography.

Of course macro photography isn't always centred on the natural world. Collectors use macro photography to record coins,stamps and other collectibles that are very small.Some people use macro photography for documenting their possessions for insurance purposes or to illustrate their auction listings online.

Working with macro photography can be a whole new visual event for even the most advanced photographers.Every day can yield another subject and an endless supply of captivating images.The possibilities of macro photography are limited only by your imagination.

If you are interested in macro photography, then by all means consider purchasing a dedicated macro lens.SLR digital cameras with interchangeable lenses are ideal for macro photography.If you're primarily interested in outdoor photography, consider a 180mm or 200mm macro lens.

Alternatively you can use extension tubes,reversing rings, or close-up diopter lens.

An extension tube is placed between the camera body and the lens.There is no glass in the tube - its purpose is to move the lens farther from the film (or digital sensor) so that magnification can be bigger.

Reversing ring is attached on the front of a lens and makes it possible to attach the lens in reverse.

Close-up diopter lens are placed in front of the camera's main lens. These screw-in or slip-on attachments provide close focusing at very low cost.However,the quality of the pictures is variable.

Felix Zhucha owns http://www.postersphotosartwork.com . Come and find popular art photographs and posters.

Hawaii Photographers Disscuss Pros And Cons Of Digital Photography - Part One

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As a professional photographer for the past 31 years, I am acutely aware of the magnitude of the effect that the digital revolution has had on my profession. The vast majority of professional photographers who have kept up with the technology will agree that ?digital? is fantastic.

Of course, there are many professionals, while agreeing that digital is great, will moan that ?digital has caused the loss of much business!? We?ll get back to that in Part Two, but first I?d like to say that the advent and development of computers and programs like Photoshop, in my humble opinion, is cause enough for celebration!

I probably should admit at this point that I am in no way a computer ?Geek?, and that to me, Photoshop is magic! It amazes me every time I use it. I can?t praise the makers of Photoshop enough. But I digress?

I have used film in my business for a long time. And I used medium format film which gave me beautiful, crisp images I could enlarge to 30x40 very nicely. I was in no hurry to ?go digital? until I saw with my own eyes, and my own images that digital could produce the same quality I had been used to. I had never seen a ?digital? print that could fool me into thinking it was from film.

That day came in 2002. I saw what was being done with 6-mega pixel capture, and Epson Stylus Pro printers and I became a ?believer?.

ADVANTAGES OF DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY

The obvious advantages, just about everybody knows: No film cost, no processing and proof costs, no prints you don?t want, instant view-ability. Well, instant gratification and saving money. What?s not to love? For a pro, the savings in film, processing and proofs is substantial. Also as a pro, instant view-ability has a marked positive influence on sales.

Deeper advantages include having complete control of your images with imaging software. (It?s a given that you need to have a good computer and good imaging software..) With those tools you can correct color, add special effects, re-touch, crop, burn & dodge, sandwich images, all kinds of things! It?s as good or better than having a chemical darkroom.

We?ll take a look at the disadvantages in Part Two, and revisit the ?loss of business? issue.
Stan P. Cox II runs a Portrait and Commercial photography studio in Honolulu, Hawaii,and has been a professional Hawaii photographer for 31 years. His web site is: http://www.ParamountPhotography.com. This article may be freely distributed if this resource box stays attached.

Time Lapse Photography

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Photography Tips - Lighting your Subject

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Lighting your subject is, obviously, very important for the successful capture of the 'perfect' image. The type and intensity of the light can dramatically change the mood of the photograph. Sometimes the effect is not obvious until the picture is developed. Even with the digital camera, although you can see an image immediately, the size of the view screen makes it difficult to notice some of the differences.

The best way to learn how light affects the final image is to experiment - ah the joy of the digital camera - you don't have to wait to get the film developed to see the results! Try taking pictures with and without the flash. Try using alternate sources of light. Try using settings other than the camera default settings.

1. Taking pictures with/without a flash Many cameras have an automatic flash setting that I find most people used 99% of the time. This may not always get you the result you want. For example, on a very bright day your flash will not fire as your camera senses enough light. However, you may find that the shadows cast are very strong and detract from the photo. Most digital cameras today have a setting called 'fill flash'. You can use this setting to 'fill' in the shadows created by the strong sunlight.

The opposite of this is to not use the flash when the camera wants to use it. Each year at Halloween I love to carve pumpkins. I try to create a new design every year and take photos of them. I take them out to the front step (in the dark), light the candles and position my self so that the flame is hidden behind the design but the light comes shining through. If I were to use a flash, all I would see would be an orange pumpkin with stuff carved out - not what I want. If I turn off the flash, I can then take a great photo that shows the design as glowing against the dark pumpkin.

2. Alternate source of additional light (other than your flash)

Instead of using the flash to illuminate your subject, try reflected light. Aluminum foil is a great reflector of light and is cheap, lightweight and easy to carry. During a walk in the woods, I found a small group of delicate pink flowers growing on a moss-covered stump. There was no direct light on the flowers and a flash would have completely washed out the colour. I used my trusty piece of aluminum foil to reflect the light falling to the ground a few feet away towards the flowers. You can adjust the amount of light by moving or crumpling the foil.

3. Different settings

The default settings are not always the best. If you are taking a photo of people with dark skin (not a portrait but a photo including most if not all the body) and you use the automatic settings, you may find that there is little detail in their faces. Opening the shutter by one f-stop (maybe more if they are really dark) should give you the light you need to show their faces. On the other hand, let's say you have a scene where you have some brightly colored leaves against a dark background. If there is a fair amount of the dark background showing, using the automatic settings will most likely overexpose the leaves, losing the vibrancy of the colour. In this instance, closing the shutter by one f-stop (or so) will bring capture the bright colours. Remember that your light meter sets your camera to give you a 'mid-gray' exposure. If your subject and background are quite different in value, then the default settings are probably not going to give you the best results.

For your experiments to have lasting value, record them. I carry a small coil notebook that I can use to note anything different I do. Some of the things I note include:

Identify your photos - In addition to numbering them, for the first photo of a group of experiments, I describe it so I will know which one it is when I get around to looking at them. For me, this is the most reliable way to know to which photos my notes belong as the camera date is usually set off and I may take photos for days before downloading.

Note the ambient light conditions - indicate the type of light (direct sunlight, full shade, light overcast, 60 watt bulb etc) and the direction of the light in relation to your subject (from right to left, front to back, etc). If you have an SLR camera, note any variations in f-stop or shutter speed you make from those derived from using your light meter.

When you have developed your photos (or downloaded them) look at the results and draw your conclusions about what worked and did not, what effects you liked and what you did not. Think about what you were trying to capture in the photo and whether the lighting you used enhanced or detracted from it.

Use your imagination and try these techniques - you have nothing to loose and you may just have more fun with your camera!

B.L Hill has been taking photographs for over forty years using a variety of equipment and media. For more articles and some great ebooks visit the Photography Tips website.

photography business

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Dreaming Winter Photography

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The sight of early morning snow, the shimmering frost in the trees, your sister falling off in your snow filled front yard and your stunning snow angel, don't you ever wish you could just capture that moment right away and place them in your computer desktop? Right, sounds easy but for an amateur photographer this may sound too challenging and laborious. But thanks to the dawn of digital photography and winter photography need not be exclusive to the professional anymore.

You have to remember a few pointers though. Winter shooting can be tricky as majority of the landscape is white and the background is bright. When shooting a snow filled area, the brightness of the snow may often cause your digital camera to somewhat underexpose the scene, thus making the snow to look gray. To correct this, you might have to increase your exposure compensation so the whiteness of the snow can be appropriately captured. The time of the day you took the picture can also have an effect in your image. So if you want cooler shots shoot closer to midday but if you want warmer shoots, shoot early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Although traditional photography belief tells us that using flash outdoor is not necessary but if you are shooting a winter photograph, using a flash can bring out details and highlights that might not be captured without it. However, if you are shooting close shots avoid using flash as much as possible as the reflection can greatly reduce any detail in your photo.

With the flexibility of processing available with digital cameras, you have better choices when in comes to choosing the finished format of your photograph. There is really nothing to lose to trying winter photography. You might even be surprised with the images that you captured. Once you have become accustomed to winter photography and have been familiar with the different techniques, you will find that winter is one of the best times of the year to go out there, take photos and make use of your digital camera. You will be surprised to see that the final results are worth the hassle.Viojieley Gurrobat loves readings books in her spare time. She writes stories and poems about anything under the sun. For comments and suggestions kindly visit http://www.digitalroom.com/Digital-Printing.html

Photography State Of The Art

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Digital photography and cameras have become increasingly popular over the last couple of years. Once only used by extreme hobbyists or the most cutting-edge photographers, the digital camera has now taken its place among one of the most coveted consumer items on the market. Digital photography has gone up against the standard film cameras in the marketplace and originally met with consumer resistance, now has become the king of the mountain in photography. Digitals only competition for the consumer?s hearts is the ubiquitous mobile phones equipped with still or video cameras.

Interestingly enough, if you been at any mass events like concerts, rallies, speeches, or sports events you will be certain to notice the thousands of people using their mobile phone to take images. It is truly impressive how the digital camera has taken a foothold in everyday life.

So how can we say that? Well one just has to look at the facts from the industry itself. The number one digital camera seller for over a year and a half now in the USA has been Kodak. Yes that is right, Kodak, the giant film photography company, has transformed itself in response to the digital wave that came out of nowhere.

Kodak was slow to respond to the demand of digital cameras, but they soon began producing digital cameras that the consumer showed a demand for. Now granted Kodak is still a huge player in the film business, which by the way is still flourishing, but they have done a marvelous job of creating a consumer product line in the digital camera arena. These products are super user friendly and they take great images to boot. The Kodak EasyShare cameras are number one in the USA and number three world wide behind Sony and Canon. Not bad for an old generation industrial giant. They have taken advantage of the digital age.

Digital camera technology is easier than ever for consumers to use, hence the reason behind the terrific worldwide growth. The cameras come ready to take great images, allow novice users to snap photos quickly and easily, and most of them have made it super easy to share, print or email photos to friends and family. Many cameras feature one button to push in order to share or print an image.

You can spend from $100 all the up to $3200+ for a top of the line digital SLR camera. Some of the best current models on the market include the new Canon E5D SLR at the high end of the cost scale at around $3200, the ultra slim Sony Cyber Shot DSC-T5 which is compact and makes a fashion statement to boot, the super easy to use and share images Kodak Easy Share One, and for great price to quality you can't beat the Fuji FinePix F10 at around $350.

Like the computer industry, the rapid pace of technology changes has affected digital cameras as well. Industry specialists now estimate that digital cameras have a life cycle of about a year. That means that new product is constantly coming onto the scene to replace the old technology and consumers are supporting that by buying newer and fancier cameras as they are released each year.

Now of course there have to be new services that benefit from the digital camera wave. The local corner film shop may have disappeared but the printer companies have found a new heaven in the market. Color printers, the ink to fill them, paper, and image printings service both offline and online are proliferating in the digital age. One of the big online digital printers was bought up by Kodak themselves in order to help garner a share of online digital image printing business.

Sawyer Theron is a feature writer at http://digitalphotoguide.thebloglands.com/ which is part of the http://thebloglands.com network of self-improvement, news and entertainment sites. Feel free to re-print this article as long the resource box is included and the article remains intact.

Portrait Photography : One of the Greatest Arts

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Before doing any portrait photography there are some very important questions that any photographer should ask himself. What kind of light source it's going to be used? From what angle the light will fall on the subject? What film, camera and lens are best to use?

If you manage to answer all this questions before taking the photo then you will probably make quite a good portrait photography. But i know that you don't want a good portrait photography, you want a perfect one. So the best way to achieve this performance is to talk with the client trying to know him, his past, his desires. This way you can create distinctive portraits. If you want a real great portrait then you have to add a bit of the client's personality in the photo. This works very well especially when you make female portrait photography. You shouldn't look for a face that is over painted by a makeup artist. Try to surprise something that really represents the subject.

If you are wondering what to talk about with your clients then the answer is anything that will show you something distinctive for that person. Try to look for different face expressions and eye or mouth movement. When you see something beautiful keep it in mind and later capture it in your portraits. Belive me that studying the subject before making the portrait photography is the biggest secret in this art. Meeting with the client, building rapport, knowing the client, and planning the session are essential elements. So don't do the final session at the first meeting. After you are sure that you know everything you need to know to make a perfect portrait photography choose the best location and time of day and take the session.

I advice you to always use natural light if it's possible. Choosing the background it's also very important too. If the picture is to close then the background looses any meaning, if it's to far then the background will overwhelm the subject. So try not to merge the subject with the background in an indistinguishable shape.

From my point of view making portrait photography is the greatest art. I belive this because it's very different from making landscape photography or nature photography. When you make a photo you can make the subject to react to your wills and you really can control the picture.

So, in conclusion when it comes to portrait photography it all depends on how much you want the photo to be perfect and how dedicated you are to the art and the feeling of seeing that your client is really pleased.For great information on Portrait Photography, Digital Photography and any other photography related subjects visit us at the best photography site.

Colored Photography

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The Early Years Of Photography

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In 1827, a Frenchmen named Joseph Nic?phore Ni?pce created the first fixed image. Another French citizen experimenting with images during the first half of the 19th century was Louis Jacques Mand? Daguerre. He was actually a scene painter, but his hobby involved experimenting with light upon lucid paintings. In 1829, Joseph Nic?phore Ni?pce and Louis Jacques Mand? Daguerre began to work together, trying to improve the process invented by Ni?pce in 1827. Ni?pce only a few years later, but Daguerre continued their work and finally managed to create a more practical method of capturing images. The first fixed image created by Ni?pce had taken 8 hours to finish. With the new technique, Daguerre had managed to decrease the necessary exposure time to less than half an hour. The image was also less prone to disappear than with the original technique. Daguerre named the new technique after himself ? the daguerreotype. In 1839, the French government purchased the invention from Daguerre and Ni?pce's son. That same year, Daguerre and Ni?pce's son published a book that described the new invention and the process behind it. This was also the year when the term photograph was coined by scientist Sir John F.W. Herschel. The term is a combination of the Greek word for light ? photos ? and the Greek word graphein, which means ?to draw?.

The daguerreotype technique involved the use of a piece of metal that had been sensitized and made capable of catching an image. During the photo process, a positive silver image was affixed at the metal plate. The technique spread rapidly and in 1850 more than 70 studios using the daguerreotype could be found a New York City. Later on, a man named William Henry Fox Talbot invented the process where a negative can be used to create a multitude of positive photographs. In 1856, Hamilton Smith invented the so called tintypes. When tintypes are used, a thin sheet of iron will serve as base for a light-sensitive material.

The next important step in the history of photography was taken when sensitized materials were coated on plate glass for the first time. These early glass negatives were wet plate ones, and the photographer was forced to develop them very rapidly. If the emulsion dried, the photograph was ruined.

The mass produced box camera was made possible by a man named George Eastman when he began to use a much more practical type of film in 1889. The base of the film was flexible and hard to break, and one of the foremost advantages of this new film was the fact that it could be conveniently rolled. The base was made from cellulose nitrate and coated with emulsions. The first camera created by Eastman was made from wood and was filled with film at the factory. When the photographer had used up all the film inside the camera, it was mailed to the Kodak factory for development and printing. The photographer could then have his camera refilled with new film and mailed back. This made it possible for amateur photographers to use a camera even without having access to any developing facility themselves. A lot of the very oldest photographs depicting everyday American life are from this era.

A good way to learn more about photography and how to take good pictures is to visit photo blogs of and discuss photos whit other amateurs. One such blog is http://dogsinmexico.blogspot.com a blog by http://wettergren.blogspot.com

Emotive Photograph

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The early history of photography

         >>  Digital Photography Secrets Revealed <<

 

In 1827, a Frenchmen named Joseph Nic?phore Ni?pce created the first fixed image. Another French citizen experimenting with images during the first half of the 19th century was Louis Jacques Mand? Daguerre. He was actually a scene painter, but his hobby involved experimenting with light upon lucid paintings. In 1829, Joseph Nic?phore Ni?pce and Louis Jacques Mand? Daguerre began to work together, trying to improve the process invented by Ni?pce in 1827. Ni?pce only a few years later, but Daguerre continued their work and finally managed to create a more practical method of capturing images. The first fixed image created by Ni?pce had taken 8 hours to finish. With the new technique, Daguerre had managed to decrease the necessary exposure time to less than half an hour. The image was also less prone to disappear than with the original technique. Daguerre named the new technique after himself - the daguerreotype. In 1839, the French government purchased the invention from Daguerre and Ni?pce's son. That same year, Daguerre and Ni?pce's son published a book that described the new invention and the process behind it. This was also the year when the term photograph was coined by scientist Sir John F.W. Herschel. The term is a combination of the Greek word for light - photos - and the Greek word graphein, which means "to draw".

The daguerreotype technique involved the use of a piece of metal that had been sensitized and made capable of catching an image. During the photo process, a positive silver image was affixed at the metal plate. The technique spread rapidly and in 1850 more than 70 studios using the daguerreotype could be found a New York City. Later on, a man named William Henry Fox Talbot invented the process where a negative can be used to create a multitude of positive photographs. In 1856, Hamilton Smith invented the so called tintypes. When tintypes are used, a thin sheet of iron will serve as base for a light-sensitive material.

The next important step in the history of photography was taken when sensitized materials were coated on plate glass for the first time. These early glass negatives were wet plate ones, and the photographer was forced to develop them very rapidly. If the emulsion dried, the photograph was ruined.

The mass produced box camera was made possible by a man named George Eastman when he began to use a much more practical type of film in 1889. The base of the film was flexible and hard to break, and one of the foremost advantages of this new film was the fact that it could be conveniently rolled. The base was made from cellulose nitrate and coated with emulsions. The first camera created by Eastman was made from wood and was filled with film at the factory. When the photographer had used up all the film inside the camera, it was mailed to the Kodak factory for development and printing. The photographer could then have his camera refilled with new film and mailed back. This made it possible for amateur photographers to use a camera even without having access to any developing facility themselves. A lot of the very oldest photographs depicting everyday American life are from this era.

A good way to learn to take better picture is to visit photo blogs like Dog photos a blog by Lena Wettergren

Equipment needed for bird photography

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The nice thing about bird photography is that it can happen anywhere on our beautiful globe. The not so nice thing is that birds are small or shy, and you need to be able to get close enough with your equipment. In this article, we will be looking at the ideal equipment for bird photography. We will also be having a quick look at how to use this equipment.

Camera body

We live in the world of digital photography, and therefore we will only be discussing digital camera bodies. I am also a really big Canon fan, so I will talk Canon, and you can translate it to other manufacturers if you need to.

You will need a decent camera body that allows you to set continuous focus while shooting images in the raw image quality. The cheapest body allowing you to do this is the Canon EOS 20D. However, it is not really cheap. The reason for it being not too affordable is that it is actually a very good all-round camera body for the serious amateur or professional. You cannot go wrong with this body...

Lenses

A lot of amateurs think that a really decent long zoom lens will solve all their problems. I have been there guys, and it does not. Do what the professionals do and get that long prime lens.

I used the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM for a long time, and my results were decent but not good enough. It is not the sharpest lens. If you need to use a zoom rather stick with the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM. It is pin sharp.

I now use the Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS USM and it is the best thing that could have happened to my photography. It is very sharp and very fast at the same time. A bit heavy at times, but I need the exercise! With this lens I mostly use a Canon Extender 1.4x II for an effective focal length of 1 120 mm with autofocus! That is plenty for any bird, and I cannot imagine getting a lot of good bird photographs with anything shorter.

By the way, do not use manual focus. Today's cameras were not built for manual focus as the viewfinders are small and do not allow you to see enough detail to manual focus effectively.

Photographing flying birds

Okay, now you have all the equipment and you are heading into the field to get that award winning photograph of a flying bird. You have to have enough light entering your lens for a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action. You also want your camera to focus where the bird is in that split second you are going to give it before firing away. So what do you do...?

Set you camera to an ISO speed of 400. In sunshine this ought to be fast enough. The reason for not using ISO 100 or 200 is that you are photographing action and you do not want anything to blur.

You must also make sure your lens is open at its maximum aperture. A Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS USM lens coupled with a Canon Extender 1.4x II gives a maximum aperture of 5.6, and this is what I use when photographing flying birds.

Also ensure your camera is set to continuous autofocus. Canon calls this setting AI Servo focus. This is crucial and the main reason why I am not a fan of camera bodies like the Canon EOS 350D. They do not allow you to use this focus with raw images... Thanks Canon!

I also set my image stabilizer to Mode 2 for photographing moving subjects, to avoid it actually working against that sharp photo rather than for it...

Now all that is left is moving that heavy lens around while the birds are flying past. Happy shooting!

Conclusion

We professionals have a way of sometime making it sound like you do not need good equipment to be a good photographer. That is utter non-sense. Get yourself decent equipment and you will see why the pros get the shot and you don't.

The other thing that makes the professionals so much better than the average amateur is patience. Go and sit somewhere where there are birds, forcing yourself not to move for three hours, and you will get the magic shots. Your patience will be rewarded.

Dries Cronje is a freelance nature photographer operating in Southern Africa. He has a passion for teaching and has dedicated one of his sites, http://www.africa-nature-photography.com, purely to helping his fellow nature photographers.